OAMC’s fall offering was a rare combination of street cred and sophistication. With military as a theme, Luke Meier upped the ante on suit options via clever layering and noble fabric mixes.

The designer embellished suit jackets in fine Italian wool with encrusted panels of fabric in the same color. These were styled on top of thin, padded nylon coats with no lapels.

All bottoms — be it single-pleat and carrot or cargo with pockets — were tucked into socks and ankle boots or sneakers, to great visual effect. The paneling and mixed-media tricks also enlivened outerwear, which came in the shape of lightweight bombers, bonded wool and cashmere peacoats as well as an arresting parka integrating smooth shearling and nylon gabardine quilting in contrasting tones of green.

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