Maison Margiela Fall/Winter 2016 Paris

Nothing evokes the Nineties more than a pair of super-tight cycling shorts styled with a nylon bomber or an elongated knitted sweater.

The design team trotted out both options for fall. It was familiar territory upped with the brand’s codes – unfinished hems, clin d’oeil effects and deconstructed silhouettes – and a switch from last season’s clean and chic dressing.

A recurring theme was the duffle coat, which at times was rendered in a sleeveless, elongated version, layered over body-hugging Lycra tops or leggings. More appealing were the label’s tailored outerwear options, especially slightly oversized, double-breasted coats with a beautiful soft shoulder.