Despite the richness, everything was easy and light, with a lot of the surprises on the inside.

Exploring the wonders of the Brioni production facility and its material resources, Norbert Stumpfl feels like a kid in a candy store since taking up the creative reins at the Kering-owned house.

“The level of manufacturing and the fabrics, which are just divine…. I’ve worked in luxury before at Paris houses but this is a complete other level, I’m getting goosebumps,” said the soft-spoken designer at his first presentation for the house.

He nonetheless kept the exuberance in check, with a lot of the surprises on the inside. A classic gray jacket sported a patterned lining, with the idea of subtle flashes of color and texture when in movement. A featherweight black double-face trench coat had a tan cashmere interior with stripe accents that extended onto a section of the lapels for graphic effect.

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