Heaven on Earth. Virgil Abloh’s latest Louis Vuitton Menswear Fall/Winter 2020 Show is here.
A new tailoring era begins for Louis Vuitton: the stage chosen by Virgil Abloh for the presentation of the 2020 winter collection of the French maison literally transported us to the sky.
A set built in a surrealist cloudscape taken over by oversized tools of the trade. That is, between clouds seen in sporty reference looks, the sartorial pieces.
They stole all our attention, with modern cuts and frills applications that give a certain feminine but current touch to the garments.
Virgil Abloh, who predicted recently that streetwear would die, made his fourth collection for Louis Vuitton all about the suit.
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It turns out that Virgil Abloh was absolutely serious when he predicted recently that streetwear would die. In a remarkable U-turn, the designer — who redefined luxury codes with his inclusive vision of fashion — made his fourth collection for Louis Vuitton all about the suit.
“Now that I’ve sort of made my statement about how I wanted to modernize the brand, this is more in line with speaking to the tradition,” Abloh, back from a recent three-month leave for unspecified “health considerations,” said in a preview. “No one has ever seen me do back-to-back hardcore tailoring ever, so that’s the shift.”
Guests including J Balvin, Diplo, Tyga and Migos members Quavo and Takeoff, gathered in a tent in the Tuileries Gardens painted like a cloudy sky, with a giant beanstalk running through the middle. Dotted across the Magritte-like set were oversize artisanal tools, including scissors, a pencil and a massive spool of thread.
None of these were as disconcerting as the traditional taupe tailored suit — worn with a tie, no less — that opened the show. It was followed by a brown one and a black one and a green one — a corporate parade livened up by the bags, which were rigid curved takes on classic styles like the Keepall and the Steamer.
“I’m not about rejecting the corporate system. I’m about claiming it in and twisting it,” Abloh was quoted as saying in the show notes.
He deconstructed the suit, quite literally, by carving it up into 30 separate pieces that were stitched together so subtly they appeared to float. Cutouts in the shape of the Vuitton monogram livened up a classic white cotton poplin shirt.
