The spring collection curated by Francesco Risso exudes an array of elements, wherein joy and rebellion seamlessly intertwine.
During his adolescence, Francesco Risso visited Paris to pay a visit to a friend residing on the very street where Karl Lagerfeld, the renowned fashion designer, resided. They spent countless hours positioned by the window, yearning for a mere glimpse of the globally acclaimed figure in the fashion industry.
Six months ago, Risso sought a venue to showcase his latest traveling exhibition for Marni, following successful events in Tokyo and New York City. During the search, he was introduced to the Hôtel Pozzo di Borgo, a stately 18th-century residence which he aptly likened to a miniature Versailles. Interestingly, this magnificent mansion happened to be the former abode of none other than Karl Lagerfeld himself.
During a recent preview held at the French headquarters of OTB, designer Risso reminisced about an unforgettable moment: a profound encounter with a man whose entire life had been devoted to the pursuit of beauty. Risso’s emotions were overpowering, as he was on the verge of losing consciousness in the face of this extraordinary energy. The headquarters themselves had been transformed into a Marni-inspired space, enhanced by meticulously hand-painted panels made from recycled cardboard.
Risso, instead of attempting to conform the collection’s identity to its temporary location, made his mark on the surroundings by presenting a coed lineup that reinforced brand aesthetics through the use of stripes, checks, and floral patterns, all with an unabashedly eccentric touch. This approach allowed the show venue, with its distinct Parisian charm, to remain authentic while still embodying the brand’s unique vision.
Attendees such as Usher, Joshua Hong from the K-pop group Seventeen, and Erykah Badu, the latter donning an exceptionally large hat, were seated on elongated inflatable tubes as models gracefully passed by. The showcased ensembles showcased a wide range, from delicately minimal slipdresses to voluminous skirts embellished with intricate layers of floral prints.
The ensemble consisted of a range of individuals, with a variety of appearances, some resembling attendees of an extended nocturnal celebration. They sported a combination of weathered leather jackets and well-structured suits, showcasing patterns in woven leather or checkered intarsia knit. Subtly incorporating gender-fluid elements, the collection included flowing babydoll dresses, which gracefully skimmed the thighs, sleek ribbed knits, and elegant pencil skirts reaching down to the floor.
If there was a unifying concept underpinning it all, it proved rather elusive. Risso expressed his inspiration as stemming from the affinity the French hold for beauty, as well as their penchant for engaging in meaningful street demonstrations.
“I’ve been thinking a lot about joy and what it means, and I have to say that joy doesn’t come like the rain. You know, it’s something that requires work, commitment, a lot of focus and it’s almost like an act of rebellion,” he said. “So you will find a lot of joy and a lot of rebellion in this collection.”
Francesco Risso
The teams involved demonstrated a clear and dedicated effort in creating the centerpieces. This was apparent in their meticulous crafting of pannier dresses, reminiscent of Marie Antoinette albeit without direct inspiration, as well as their elaborate 3D dresses meticulously constructed from numerous tin cans, molded and painted to resemble stunning metallic flowers.
The designer has significantly moved Marni away from its origins as a symbol of distinctive yet elegant Milanese fashion.
Furthermore, he aims to provoke a reaction. “Ideally, I hope for individuals to tangibly connect with the garments, or for the garments to metaphorically impact individuals – perhaps even metaphorical ‘slaps’,” he expressed with a jovial tone. We are certainly taken aback by this distinctive approach.
CREATIVE DIRECTOR: FRANCESCO RISSO
ART DIRECTOR: BABAK RADBOY
BRAND ART DIRECTOR: SERGIO CATTIVELLI
MUSICAL DIRECTOR: DEV HYNES
ORCHESTRA: CAT PROD ORCHESTRA
STYLING: CARLOS NAZARIO
CHOREOGRAPHY BY: SHARLEEN CHIDIAC
CASTING DIRECTOR: MIDLAND AGENCY
HAIR STYLIST: PAUL HANLON
MANICURIST: DAWN STERLING
MAKEUP ARTIST: YADIM
PRODUCTION: KENNEDY LONDON
LIGHT DESIGNER: MARCELLO LUMACA
PRODUCER, DIRECTOR, CINEMATOGRAPHER: PERIMETRON
