Giorgio Armani is overseeing the event. A sharp blue eye peered out from his autumn invitation and runway backdrop, as his men’s show commenced with a short video of the Italian fashion icon approaching a backstage peephole to observe the audience’s response to his fashion presentation.
On Monday, he supervised the proceedings via a monitor. He would have noticed numerous dusty footprints and scuff marks on his polished black runway, along with a captivated and mostly appreciative audience for his dynamic presentation.
The show celebrated his cardigan-style tailoring, skillful combinations of traditional menswear materials such as tweed, herringbone, and flannel, and, surprisingly, leopard-print velvet, alongside an abundance of looks from his Neve skiwear range.
For his impressive Emporio Armani collection presented earlier in the week, the designer revisited bold-shoulder looks reminiscent of the ’80s. In his signature collection, he also drew inspiration from that era, with “American Gigolo” influencing the popularity of his relaxed jackets devoid of padding and often lapels, alongside his earthy color palette.
There were 2024 variations of his relaxed, comfortable suit jackets, with some reaching nearly fingertip length. His trousers were similarly loose and pajama-like, with some featuring cuffs and others being elasticated at the ankle. Certain styles were cinched by tabs that hovered around ankle boots, which were the hallmark shoes of the Milan season.
While the presentation fell short in terms of impact, the silhouettes and refined fabric combinations were distinctly representative of Armani, occasionally enhanced with utilitarian elements and interspersed with performance and après-ski pieces from the Neve line.
“These are clothes that I could also wear, and this is a path that I have always followed,” Armani said backstage. “The proportions are bigger, in sync with the trend, and this allows for more ease, I find it right to put the accent on this sense of ease.”
Mr. Armani
“He justified the abundance of Neve pieces by asserting that activewear has become an integral part of our daily attire: It is no longer unconventional to wear padded pants underneath a jacket.”
And he’s resolute that menswear doesn’t have to be an “object of desire at all costs.”
“It is essential to focus on an exquisite suit, a splendid jacket, a beautiful fabric, and color combination, without detracting from the elegance,” he clarified. “This demands a more challenging approach.”
With neckties making a notable appearance on several Milan runways this season, is there a possibility of a comeback as perceived by the blue-eyed designer? “I am hopeful for its resurgence,” he reflected, emphasizing his belief in the appropriateness of ties for specific occasions.
