On Thursday, January 18, 2024, RICK OWENS presented the FW24 Porterville Men’s Collection at 7 Bis Place Du Palais Bourbon, 75007 Paris. This event marked a significant milestone as it returned to the roots of the brand, showcasing collections where it all began 25 years ago. The chosen venue, the home and working compound, symbolized a respectful move in observance of the challenging times we are currently living through.
However, in a twist of introspection, the designer expressed concern that what was initially intended as a respectful gesture might unintentionally exclude a community that could have found solace and connection through the show. This realization led to a reconsideration of the approach, emphasizing the importance of community in these trying times.
In the spirit of fostering a sense of community, the designer extended invitations to some of his favorite utopian creatives who embody a fearless and complete commitment to their aesthetic. Collaborations with London designer Straytukay resulted in inflated rubber pull-on stretch boots, showcasing architectural volumes and technical construction prowess.
The collection featured jackets and pants crafted from recycled discarded bicycle tires by Matisse Di Maggio, a member of the Parisian BDSM community specializing in rubber gear. Additionally, Steven from Fecal Matter and Gena Marvin graced the runway, bringing their unique perspectives to the showcase.
Fecal Matter, known for balancing condemning judgment with cheerful depravity, resonated with the designer’s belief in pushing boundaries. Gena Marvin’s commitment to her aesthetic in Russia, as captured in a moving documentary by filmmaker Agniia Galdanova, highlighted the diverse and bold narratives present in the fashion world.
The collection itself portrayed grotesque and inhuman proportions, serving as a reaction to some of the most disappointing human behavior witnessed in our lifetime. Despite this, there was an underlying theme of eternal utopian hope for a better future.
Among the standout pieces were knit space suits crafted from recycled cashmere, alpaca, or merinos, as well as turbo-ply shrouds and hoodies. Shaggy jumpsuits and capes made from heavyweight felt with long alpaca fibers on a silk warp added a tactile and luxurious dimension to the collection.
Denim treatments took center stage, with 13oz Japanese denim undergoing a process involving layers of wax and foil, resulting in a cracked and peeled megacrust look. The commitment to sustainability was evident in the denim production process, carried out in an Italian wash house in Veneto, emphasizing water waste reduction and recycling.
Cargo jumpsuits, tunics, and boots made from 1.5mm thick veg-tanned and washed calf leather showcased a commitment to natural and sustainable practices. The designer continued capsule collections with Bonotto, a fourth-generation textile mill founded in 1912, using resistant and durable materials like heavy Cordura nylon, utilitarian wool canvas, and cotton whipcord.
The collection also featured an amplified version of the longtime staple Geobaskets, adding a louder proportion to this iconic footwear.
In a poignant reflection, the designer recalled the first time hearing Bowie’s “Warzawa” in 1977, a song that spoke of bleakness and yearning for dignity. This sentiment resonated with the designer’s childhood experiences and served as a powerful backdrop to the collection.
The F/W24 RICK OWENS ‘Porterville’ Men’s Collection, beyond being a display of avant-garde fashion, emerged as a powerful commentary on societal challenges, the spirit of community, and the enduring hope for a better future.
Porterville Rick Owens @rickowensonline
Casting AMC CASTING (CLM)
Hair Duffy (Streeters)
Makeup MAC Cosmetics AND Daniel Sallstrom (MA WORLD GROUP)
Production LA MODE en IMAGES
Music Exclusive Mix of ‘WARSZAWA’ by David Bowie.
