Lucie and Luke Meier sought to achieve an intimate and enveloping sensation, leading to a textural opulence and unconventional expressions.
“There’s a lot of healing to sage. It’s sort of a protective color,” said Luke Meier in a preview with WWD, teasing the shade would play a key role in the Jil Sander collection he codesigned with his wife Lucie.
Guests arriving amid the untimely downpour (a recurring feature of Jil Sander’s fashion week) sought refuge in an oval-shaped space adorned with plush cobalt blue carpeting. Notably, arty cobalt blue horn speakers served as a striking installation at the center of the venue, responsible for amplifying the live performance by the talented artist Mk.gee, which complemented the show.
The Meiers’ distinctive mastery of texture and color sensibility was truly remarkable. Their deliberate use of enveloping, rounded silhouettes and tactile flourishes defied the traditional austere image and sharp tailoring commonly attributed to the brand. Their pursuit of an intimate, enrobing sensation led to surprising moments of eccentricity.
The pieces were an invitation to stretch out a hand and run it on padded velvet coats and fuzzy reversible knit pieces; sink it in the strips of cotton voile covering a cream jacket and matching skirt; squeeze the exaggerate padding of leather coats that could have doubled as inflatable pool floats, or run the fingers through the extra-long silk fringes of a swishing cape.
The beautiful openwork crochet separates provided a light and airy contrast to the rich textures. These textures encompassed chunky cable knits, which were adorned with a delicate, almost translucent knit net to create a blurred effect. Additionally, there was a notable presence of quilted garments, ranging from capes and vests combined with double-faced wool tailoring to couture-like dresses. The dresses, with their enveloping maxi proportions and striking electric blue or bright red hues, were truly eye-catching.
Focusing on monochrome colors, the Meiers integrated other charming shades in their palette, going from chocolate and plum to pastel mint and pink, as seen in knitted dresses cut in graphic hourglass silhouettes and rounded sleeves.
Chainmail fringing details added elegance to several outfits, cascading down the sides of trousers or swaying from tank tops and the backs of coats. In contrast, a silver strapless column gown was poised to deviate from the Meiers’ tranquil sage green bubble and make a statement on the red carpet instead.
Fall/Winter 2024
Women’s and Men’s Collection
Discover more on jilsander.com
Live musical performance by @mk.gee_
