Designer Anthony Vaccarello, inspired by the “impossible conversation” books and exhibitions, wondered what it would be like if Yves Saint Laurent and Robert Mapplethorpe had met. (A 1983 YSL men’s campaign featuring the American photographer sparked this intriguing idea.)
While Vaccarello couldn’t confirm any actual encounter between the two men, he channeled their unique styles into his fall 2025 Saint Laurent menswear collection. The collection centered around handsome, double-breasted tailoring, complemented by playful subversions, such as black leather thigh boots for every model, even those already wearing leather pants.
This collection raises questions about the corporate types who embrace leather blouses and trenchcoats. Could it be considered desk-to-dungeon dressing?
Vaccarello transformed the grand, domed hall at the Bourse de Commerce art museum into a grand setting. He laid out a vast, polished Versailles parquet floor and placed five monumental chandeliers as a striking centerpiece. Models swiftly circled the room, illuminated like a seedy cocktail bar rather than a stock exchange, making it challenging to fully appreciate the intricate details Vaccarello had meticulously planned.
The designer highlighted dry, masculine fabrics like wool and tweed, emphasized a pronounced but not exaggerated shoulder line, and incorporated evening coats adorned with cock feathers as a nod to the show’s timing during couture week.
Vaccarello’s mood board showcased a comprehensive range of YSL from the ‘80s, including the iconic Mapplethorpe-fronted ad and one of the French fashion legend’s distinctive tartan ensembles.
When asked about the shared qualities between Saint Laurent and Mapplethorpe, Vaccarello emphasized their mastery of image-making. Both men meticulously studied their subjects, leaving no room for spontaneity. “Everything is carefully crafted and staged,” he explained.
“There’s a slightly dangerous side to Mapplethorpe that we can also find in Yves Saint Laurent,” the designer concluded.
By now, we should be accustomed to Vaccarello’s signature style of hammering away at a single silhouette and message. In this case, it was a double-breasted suit exuding confidence and a meaty leather coat that hinted at a touch of loucheness. While the fashion show may not have been particularly exciting, it was at least straightforward and easy to follow.
“A rather classic man, always dressed in a suit and tie. This is something I want to continue pursuing at Saint Laurent,” Vaccarello explained.
@ysl by @anthonyvaccarello
Photographed by @markrkean
Casting @samuel_ellis
