“I’ve never really been interested in fantasy. I’m much more interested in reality,” declared Dario Vitale, Versace’s new chief creative officer, ahead of his much-anticipated debut at Milan Fashion Week Spring/Summer 2026.
This statement set the tone for a collection that was both daring and divisive, challenging long-time expectations of the Versace name.
A Bold Debut at the Pinacoteca Ambrosiana
Vitale presented his first Versace menswear collection at the historic Pinacoteca Ambrosiana museum in Milan, a setting filled with art and a Medusa bust that nodded to the house’s iconic heritage. But rather than leaning into the high-octane glamour synonymous with Versace, Vitale delivered an exploration of everyday garments infused with retro brio and a distinct streetwear sensibility.
Gone were the red-carpet showstoppers. In their place: jeans, T-shirts, blousons, vests, and sweaters that felt more East Village disco than Met Gala spectacle.
Reality, Not Fantasy
Vitale’s collection looked to redefine Versace’s sex appeal for a new era. T-shirts were slashed into muscle tanks and tabards. Jeans rode high, fitted tight at the crotch, with button flies often left provocatively undone.
The collection referenced the house’s heritage with nods to Warhol-inspired prints from Gianni Versace’s 1991 collection, but instead of iconic faces, Vitale introduced hand-painted portraits reminiscent of Jackie O, Sophia Loren, and Rudolph Valentino — everyday, humanized icons rather than untouchable legends.
Everyday Clothes, Extraordinary Attitude
If the clothes had a thrift-shop patina, they also carried a rebellious energy. The designer staged the show as if guests had stumbled upon the aftermath of an all-night party, complete with an unmade bed and makeup-stained cotton pads scattered across the set. George Michael and Prince blasted from the speakers, reinforcing the carefree yet deeply stylish narrative.
“When it comes to Versace, I always think that those people, they want to dance and to sweat and to have fun,” Vitale explained. “For me, a beautiful pair of striped jeans and a fully embroidered leather vest that cost a million dollars is even better.”
A Shift from Donatella’s Glamorous Torch
Vitale’s approach marked a significant shift from the high-gloss, unapologetically glamorous Versace championed by Donatella Versace for nearly three decades. Though now serving as brand ambassador, Donatella was notably absent from the show.
Still, Vitale embraced bold colors, patterns, and the vast legacy of the house — but made it clear he would filter it through his own lens. Previously the ready-to-wear design director at Miu Miu, Vitale underscored that he is a designer of products and reality, not fantasy illusions.
The Verdict
Of all the designer debuts this Milan season, Vitale’s Versace may prove the most daring. Some may find the streetwear-infused approach too radical for the house’s legacy, while others will view it as a refreshing step into relevancy for a younger audience.
What’s certain is that Versace Spring/Summer 2026 menswear has opened a new chapter — one where reality, not fantasy, takes center stage.
This guide makes gaming here awesome! Side Eye Emoji