Riccardo Tisci grew up in Italy dreaming of America, which has frequently fed his men’s collections for Givenchy. A book he came across detailing the obsessions of certain kids in Africa – cowboys, heavy metal – unleashed a torrent of new ideas on his fall runway. He also blended in recent travels to Morocco and Berlin, yielding a diverse and energetic collection.
Read more22/4 Hommes Fall/Winter 2016 Paris
With the Nineties trending in Paris, obvious references to the period can be a temptation. Stephanie Hahn steered clear of them, producing an athletic collection with a deluxe feel that harked back to the ravers of Manchester’s famous nightclub, The Haçienda, mixed with English huntsmen dressing.
Read moreAnn Demeulemeester Fall/Winter 2016 Paris
Sébastien Meunier came over all touchy-feely with his fall collection for Ann Demeulemeester, which he described as an ode to a modern-day Adonis. Textural effects abounded as the designer used materials including mohair, fil coupé and an alpaca-silk blend to create deep-pile effects on glossy coats, jackets and pants.
Read moreMaison Margiela Fall/Winter 2016 Paris
Nothing evokes the Nineties more than a pair of super-tight cycling shorts styled with a nylon bomber or an elongated knitted sweater.
Read moreJunya Watanabe Fall/Winter 2016 Paris
Junya Watanabe’s strength is in the relentless reiteration of a single notion or motif, stuttering through synonyms for a particular term in fashion’s vocabulary. It’s an idea he often turns to in his shows—taking an archetypal item or technique, and then exhausting it.
Read moreVivienne Westwood Spring/Summer 2016 Campaign
Vivienne Westwood released her Spring/Summer 2016 campaign, shot by Juergen Teller.
Read moreDries Van Noten Fall/Winter 2016 Paris
Everybody got a backstage pass to Dries Van Noten’s military-themed show, staged behind the scenes of the Opera Garnier, with its inclined floors and imposing collection of set screens looming from the ceiling as backdrop.
Read moreCarven Fall/Winter 2016 Paris
“This is not a vintage collection,” insisted Barnabé Hardy at the presentation of his first fall effort for Carven.
Read moreKolor Fall/Winter 2016 Paris
It was a mellow and dapper collection from Junichi Abe for his brand Kolor, and not only because of the warmth of the downbeat jazzy soundtrack — it was one of his best Kolor collections to date, full of nonchalant smartness.
Read moreIssey Miyake Fall/Winter 2016 Paris
Each season, there are apparently a dozen or so Issey Miyake collections that we, the press, don’t get to see. They distill the often-obtuse influences of the main line into palatable edits.
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