“Pagan knights in shining armor. Layers on layers as a defense mechanism. Something knitty and cozy—the epitome of British craft.” Jonathan Anderson was in succinct mode when explaining the makings of his Fall menswear collection.
A glitchy track called “Channeltwo (Murderousdub)” by an outfit called Seekersinternational—which, on its Soundcloud page, proclaims to “champion the more introspective explorations of dub”—ricocheted around the room. The set mimicked the atrium of a could-be-anywhere, ’90s office building.
The presentation of Lou Dalton Fall/Winter 2017 in LFWM was a mythical artcrafted menswear collection.
But what Dalton does, when it’s really good, rises above...
Christopher Shannon Menswear began in 2008, with a vision of moving British menswear on from its legacy of fine tailoring and a mission to create modern, relevant garments drawing on diverse references. The label is stocked by trend- leading stores around the world, such as Harvey Nichols, IT, Opening Ceremony, 10 Corso Como and Space Mue.
Patrick Grant had said pre-show this collection was inspired by the portraits of scarecrows by British photographer Peter Mitchell. Yet anyone anticipating a straw-strewn Savile Row interpretation of Worzel Gummidge had their hopes dashed. Grant is far too meticulous for that.
Andreas Kronthaler's “Body & Soul” brings Vivienne Westwood Spring/Summer 2027 to Paris with exposed bodies, rebellious tailoring, draped silhouettes and gloriously unconventional menswear.
Tyler Maher slips into Jitrois stretch leather for P.L.A.Y., a colorful campaign mixing bare skin, graphic biker jackets, cutouts and provocative Parisian menswear.
Jack McCollough and Lazaro Hernandez bring relaxed American sportswear, bold color and playful proportions to LOEWE Spring/Summer 2027 menswear in Paris.
Pierpaolo Piccioli brings couture thinking into the everyday for Balenciaga Spring 2027, loosening menswear through wide trousers, featherlight outerwear, washed denim and explosive color.