“We wanted to look at an idea of appropriation, an appropriation of place, of objects, of advertising, of characters, of attitudes. We wanted to bring these all together in an extreme setting, to make them real and unreal at the same time. We wanted to bring the characters found in the collection to life.”
—Raf Simons, Chief Creative Officer, CALVIN KLEIN
Earlier this year, the Robert Mapplethorpe Foundation contacted Raf Simons. They asked if he’d like to work with them on something. He said yes. That’s the shorthand version of the story behind the collection he presented at Pitti Immagine Uomo, perfectly chimed with a duo of Mapplethorpe exhibitions at LACMA and the Getty Museum, and the HBO documentary subtitled Look at the Pictures.
What Raf Simons has been doing with his fashion shows for the last two years now is fascinating. He’s been consistently chafing at the confines of the industry, challenging perceptions of his work.
Andreas Kronthaler's “Body & Soul” brings Vivienne Westwood Spring/Summer 2027 to Paris with exposed bodies, rebellious tailoring, draped silhouettes and gloriously unconventional menswear.
Tyler Maher slips into Jitrois stretch leather for P.L.A.Y., a colorful campaign mixing bare skin, graphic biker jackets, cutouts and provocative Parisian menswear.
Jack McCollough and Lazaro Hernandez bring relaxed American sportswear, bold color and playful proportions to LOEWE Spring/Summer 2027 menswear in Paris.
Pierpaolo Piccioli brings couture thinking into the everyday for Balenciaga Spring 2027, loosening menswear through wide trousers, featherlight outerwear, washed denim and explosive color.