Dior Homme Fall/Winter 2014 Paris

By Tim Blanks Since Raf Simons arrived at Dior, Christian Dior himself has been resuscitated, restored as the wellspring of the house’s mythology. Today, Kris Van Assche made his own contribution by elevating him as the original homme Dior, using elements from the magic Christian’s work and wardrobe to create one of his strongest collections yet for Dior Homme.  The strength was in the finely honed detail. The pinstripes of Dior’s own Savile Row suits were reproduced in myriad versions: narrow, wide, irregular, embroidered, rendered in leather strips. The polka dots of his silk ties were embroidered all over jackets, pants, shirts, bags, and … Continue reading Dior Homme Fall/Winter 2014 Paris

Kris Van Assche Fall/Winter 2014 Paris

The best part of a John Baldessari piece is that you can almost hear the color land on his black-and-white photographs and photomontages with a splat. Kris Van Assche was looking at Baldessari’s work to inspire his own this season—in particular, Man Running, which gave the collection its title, Run—and a jolt of color hit Van Assche’s black-and-white looks with that same comic whomp. It was, in an entirely complimentary way, almost funny. The athletic stringency Van Assche often favors gave way to a looser-limbed bounce. Continue reading Kris Van Assche Fall/Winter 2014 Paris

Damir Doma Fall/Winter 2014 Paris

Parisian brand Damir Doma presented his Menswear Fall/Winter 2014 at #pfw DAMIR DOMA Men’s Autumn Winter 2014-15 Styling / Tony Irvine Casting / Adam Hindle Hair / Anthony Turner @ Art Partner Production Make-Up / Lucia Pica @ Art Partner Production Music / KILLING SOUND and [YOUNG ECHO] Set Design / Matthieu Prat @ Diplomats Show Director / Devi Sok Production & Light Design / Mark Vanderbroeck Video / Fabrice Davillé @ Premices Films Show Photography / Shoji Fujii Backstage Photography / Lea Colombo http://www.damirdoma.com Continue reading Damir Doma Fall/Winter 2014 Paris

Ermenegildo Zegna Fall/Winter 2014 Milan

Ermenegildo Zegna presented its Fall/Winter 2014 collection during Milan Fashion Week. Stefano Pilati explores and combines absolute concepts by relativising their origins: merging the formal with sportswear; dark tones with light; nuances to graphisms. Continue reading Ermenegildo Zegna Fall/Winter 2014 Milan

Sibling Fall/Winter 2014 London

Sibling is a knitwear-specific triumvirate of Sid Bryan, Joe Bates and Cozette McCreery. It was launched in 2008 as an antidote to what we felt was a lack of choice in menswear knit on offer either in stores or from designers themselves. With a fun, colourful and great quality on the whole, multiples of knit so hat, scarf, jumpers, cardigans, joggers, socks, and gloves for this Fall/Winter 2014 Collection at London Collection Menswear. Continue reading Sibling Fall/Winter 2014 London

Jonathan Saunders Fall/Winter 2014 London

Jonathan Saunders spent part of the summer in Barcelona art directing The Visitor, a short film by Justin Anderson, which details the sexual impact the arrival of a young stranger has on a dysfunctional family. It’s a take, in other words, on Pasolini’s Theorem, which made Saunders very happy because he loves the director. The most striking effect, however, was achieved when Saunders laboriously hand-colored a precious Arts and Craft-style print in felt-tip pen, then wrapped it in bands of bleach. He had no clue at all how it would turn out. “Vandalizing,” he called it. So it is already one of Fall 2014’s happiest accidents … Continue reading Jonathan Saunders Fall/Winter 2014 London

Valentino Spring/Summer 2014

Enlisting models for a stylish army, Valentino creative directors Maria Grazia Chiuri and Pierpaolo Piccioli embraced a military motif for their spring/summer 2014 collection. Beginning with conservative suits for the civilian in denim hues, the design duo pulled the layers back for a more apparent approach to the season. Utilizing a crisp white t-shirt as the collection’s core essential, other sportswear separates easily came together. The shirt jacket was reinterpreted in light leather while selective color blocking paved the way for experiments with camouflage, furnishing outerwear, suiting separates and more. Continue reading Valentino Spring/Summer 2014