Tom Ford Menswear Fall/Winter 2015 London

Tom Ford was in easygoing mode today, presenting his latest menswear collection to small groups of journalists in his London showroom. The set’s pristine white floor was already scuffed, from where the models had apparently been dancing between showings — and that cheery informality set the tone for the whole presentation.

Ford was content, this time round, to focus on the highlights — on Mod-slim monochrome separates, on expertly considered jean cuts, on the tennis shoes that have become an unexpected hit for the label, and on an opulent lineup of dinner jackets in metallic velvets or Op Art black-and-white prints.

Off stage, the rest of the presentation was taken up with a supporting cast of additions to the Ford range — slim portfolios and attaché cases with elegant metal detailing, piles of knitwear in swathes of moss green and amber, glossy boots and emphatically packaged fragrances. As ever, it was a compelling vision of luxury menswear. But this time, the sense of relaxation and range that dominated both presentation and product made it clear just how much Ford’s focus these days is on his diverse, informed customer base.