How do you get guys to re-buy the classics? That, in a nutshell, was the question posed by Tommy Hilfiger to his team as they brainstormed this season’s Hilfiger Edition menswear collection. The obvious answer is to give the kinds of preppy staples that Hilfiger has traded in since the ’80s a major update; for Hilfiger, “update” translated to “upgrade.” This was a collection enamored of fine materials and rich, unexpected detail—to wit, the unexpectedly stern leather used in a field jacket with geometric pockets, and the shearling collar and doubled zip on a rather natty navy puffer. A great deal of attention was given to trims, stitch details, and tonal accents—all handled with a light touch, but noticeable enough to make the garments pop.
Hilfiger’s updating extended as well to the relaxed mien of this collection, reflected especially in its nods, here and there, to pajamas (even the collection’s tux got pajama-fied) and, more generally, in the clothing’s easygoing shapes. The Tommy team had combed the archive for signature pieces, and then translated them into new boxier and baggier silhouettes. Dressy striped wool trousers in a slack, pajama-bottom shape epitomized the approach and will undoubtedly hold a lot of appeal for dudes with desk jobs but zero patience for formal office attire. These days, that’s quite a constituency.