Maison Margiela Spring/Summer 2017 Paris

By Paulina Szmydke

This was a mellow spring offering by Maison Margiela, and not just because models were strolling to the soothing tunes of “Last Year’s Man,” delivered by Leonard Cohen.

There was cool and carefree tailoring based on soft shoulders and insouciantly rolled up cuffs. The elongated jacket of a tranquil suit done up in a Prince of Wales check was gently enveloped by a ribbon, while a run of fluid trenchcoats came with slightly bell-shaped sleeves favoring freedom of movement over conventions.

Sending out more conceptual silhouettes, the design team conjured some interesting alternatives that could easily resonate with a younger and more moody consumer. Cue exposed basting stitches on suit jackets, which turned the crafty handwork into decoration, adding an edgy vibe to an old-man’s staple.

 The unfinished constructions also upped the ante of shirts, some of which were patched together from contrasting fabrics — chambray, knit and poplin — or were buttoned instead of sewn, accentuating the season’s DYI spirit. When styled with athletic tear-away pants and folded loafers, they oozed a fresh, youthful vibe. The guys look as if they had just crawled out of bed, though one had to admire their quick-wittedness to put on clothing that actually made sense regardless of its rugged, yet never random character.

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