Robert Geller was torn between love and war for his fall collection.

The designer, who was celebrating his 10th anniversary, started to conceive this line six months ago during a particularly unstable time in Europe and the U.S., and this shone through in his use of heavy military references and neoprene ski masks that at times felt a little threatening.

“It’s about the need to protest, the need to protect but also have some hope,” he said.