Neil Barrett Men’s Fall/Winter 2022 in Milan referenced uniforms via subtle details for a contemporary and sartorial savvy collection.
Neil Barrett’s fall collections tackled uniforms to explore the way people channel identity and individuality via clothing.
He referenced signature tropes of naval, Air Force and Army garb via subtle details: grommets, buttons and press-studs misplaced on double-breasted overcoats as decorative elements; detachable pockets applied to field jackets; cummerbunds turned into fanny packs, and every iteration of the sailor collar worn over pristine white shirts.
“Everyone has a uniform, and the idea is to create uniforms that work for you individually,” Barrett said during an appointment at his Milan showroom.
Duffle coats and fields jackets worn with relaxed, pleated pants were updated as loose city uniforms, while coats with double lapels were a major sartorial statement. Barrett also introduced a nine-piece capsule collection with Alpha Industries reinventing the signature MA-1 VF 59 flight jacket.
The contemporary and sartorial savvy collection was presented off-schedule via video on the brand’s social media channels, its overall rigor contrasting with pink space that hosted the runway. On the two side walls, digitized eyes moved to follow walking models. It was a surrealist touch and a commentary on the digital show experience in which sight is the only sense allowed, the designer said.
“I’m missing physical shows, it’s a rush of energy, the highest point of the season,”
Barrett noted. He will return to an IRL display next season.
