Barrett channeled underground uniforms in this commercially savvy collection that lacked some needed zing.
Neil Barrett is a ‘90s kid. He experienced the decade’s music and underground scene first hand and is embracing the wave of nostalgia sweeping through fashion with brio.
He is also very specific about his idea of masculinity, often rigorous and graphic in its minimalism, inspired as it is by uniforms. They are signs of belonging and community to him, for as much as they flatten individual expression they are also instrumental in defining one.
Backed by a new manufacturing partner, Barrett seemed re-energized about meticulously working on fabrics and silhouettes rather than channeling a seasonal theme.
Explaining the creative process at his Milan studio while shooting the lookbook images attached here, he went into the subtle details behind the construction of his Buffalo leather overshirts paired with wide-leg sartorial pants, twisted argyle knits with cuffed leisure bottoms, workwear-nodding pants, rayon tracksuits and mixed-media sweats and coats.
The lineup included zodiac sign-bearing T-shirts only for the first half of the year, the remainder to be unveiled with June’s spring collection. They will no doubt make for a retail hit.
Next year the brand marks its 25th anniversary and potentially its return to the catwalk. But while Barrett’s fashion still looks fresh, it needs to retrieve its former edge.
