In an oasis of linen reproduced in San Fedele Square in Milan, with hay bales from Normandy, ZEGNA presented the Spring Summer 2024 collection at Milan Fashion Week.
Alessandro Sartori is giving Zegna the concrete realization of a project he had envisioned many years ago, which now reveals itself in its entirety (the company deserves credit for waiting for the results): you can see it clearly in this collection that, between formal trompe l’oeil and materials, is a concrete hymn to the concept of “second nature.”
A collection that starts with the question of the most suitable material for summer, and the answer is linen, specifically the one produced internally by the brand.
And if this is the natural process of the material, Sartori tackles two types of silhouettes: the first one consists of a jacket with a guru collar, made of 4-ply linen, clean on the outside, without shoulder pads, and with an internal construction; the second is the transformation of the jumpsuit, which has two versions: the complete and genuine one, and the trompe l’oeil version created by the jacket tucked into skinny pants.
To present its Spring-Summer 2024 collection, Zegna has recreated an Oasis in the center of Milan, featuring 192 raw linen bales – the very material that will be used for garment production.
The volumes are fluid, the shapes are liquid: deconstructed jackets, bombers that transform into shirts, pants and Bermuda shorts that drape softly on the body, earthy colors, materials ranging from silk to wool, from raffia to jute, and of course linen, the standout feature of the collection.
Zegna’s austere chic.
The runway show by ZEGNA, designed by Alessandro Sartori, is a discovery in itself. At first glance, it suggests a statement of clean-chic without exaggeration, which may be less easily interpreted by the audience less inclined towards intellectual speculations.
A closer look allows for the contemplation of stylish details such as gusset pockets and visible stitching artfully incorporated with the meticulousness of minimalist architecture, contextualizing the SS ’24 collection within a refined ideal of men’s fashion.