Peter Hawkings made his runway debut at Tom Ford on Thursday night, offering what some might dub “Tom Ford lite.”
From the plush velvet seats lining the runway to the designer’s own rectangular tortoise glasses when he took his bow, everything about the show felt like a nostalgic trip for those in the know, reminiscent of Tom Ford’s hedonistic heyday at Gucci in the ’90s.
The collection itself was a throwback to the glory days when Amber Valletta’s sleek white jersey gowns and Gwyneth Paltrow’s velvet pantsuits redefined fashion, ushering in an era of glamour that drew inspiration from the ’60s and ’70s. However, it lacked some of Ford’s signature showmanship and refinement.
Behind the scenes, Hawkings, who collaborated with Ford for a remarkable 25 years, including designing menswear at Gucci and Ford’s eponymous label, expressed his desire to chart a new course.
“I’ve moved past the era of oversized fashion. I believe beauty lies in showcasing the elegance of the human body, as you can see in the impeccable fit,” he explained. “I’m obsessed with details, whether it’s in bags, hardware, or shoes. I’ve completely revamped the shoes, focusing on manufacturing, comfort, and design.”
Working in partnership with Zegna, the licensee for Ford’s women’s and men’s wear and accessories, Hawkings exclusively developed fabrics for the collection. This collection paid homage to Donyale Luna, the iconic Detroit-born Black supermodel, with a slick array of leather jackets, side-slit skirts, threadwork dresses, fringed gold minis, and silk shirts provocatively unbuttoned to reveal the navel.
Hawkings breathed new life into Ford’s iconic velvet pantsuits, infusing them with playful short-shorts. He also updated his slinky jersey dresses with alluring keyhole cutouts, open backs, and elegant gold buckles.
Hawkings’ love for the ’60s and ’70s draws inspiration from his mother’s style, rather than Studio 54 like Ford’s. “I remember her crafting incredible patterns. We didn’t come from privilege; my dad was a builder, and my mom was a nurse. Yet, she would purchase those YSL Vogue patterns, always caring about her presentation. That’s what initially attracted me to work with Tom all those years ago,” he shared.
His grander vision involves bridging the gap between Tom Ford’s women’s and men’s collections. “There has been a historical divide with Tom and his team based in L.A.,” explained Hawkings, who operates from London. He achieved this unification through meticulous tailoring, a shared vibrant color palette, and the shimmer of metallic accents.
In sum, the collection exuded a sense of control and commercial viability, exemplified by the everyday eyewear sported by every model, provided by licensee Marcolin. It’s a collection tailored for those seeking to revisit Ford’s greatest hits without scouring the vintage market. However, as Hawkings settles into his role, one can hope to see more of his unique creative spark shine through.
