Vetements’ Spring 2025 collection, themed “Time to Clean Up the Mess,” showcased in Paris, was yet another example of the brand’s playful yet provocative style under creative director Guram Gvasalia. Known for its rebellious approach to fashion, Vetements has long embraced oversized silhouettes, controversial prints, and a sardonic attitude that questions the industry’s seriousness. This year’s show was no different—offering a memorable and polarizing experience that had the audience buzzing.
The Celebrity Line-Up: Star Power to Open the Show
Vetements brought in major star power to kick off the Spring 2025 runway, opening with none other than rapper Travis Scott, who embodied the brand’s irreverent spirit. Scott’s look, a bare-chested ensemble with crushed moto gear, immediately set the tone for the daring collection. Gigi Hadid followed, pushing the boundaries of wearable fashion as she appeared wrapped in nothing but DHL-branded tape—a nod to one of Vetements’ most iconic and playful designs from its earlier collections. The star-studded lineup also featured actress Marcia Cross, who closed the show, adding a layer of unexpected glamour to the evening.
The inclusion of such high-profile names wasn’t just for spectacle; it solidified Vetements’ place as a brand that knows how to blend high fashion with cultural relevance. The cast of models and influencers present at the event ensured that Vetements dominated the headlines and social media feeds, staying true to its strategy of using shock value to grab attention.
“The Most VETEMENTS Show” Ever?
Guram Gvasalia, the younger brother of Demna (formerly of Vetements and now at Balenciaga), promised that this would be “the most VETEMENTS show” yet. Indeed, the collection felt like a tribute to the brand’s greatest hits while making a pointed commentary on its place in the fashion world today. It revisited many of the motifs that made Vetements famous, from oversized garments to graphic tees with cheeky slogans. Yet, for all its callbacks, the collection leaned heavily on aesthetics that have become synonymous with Balenciaga under Demna’s leadership, raising questions about Guram’s ability to carve out a distinct identity for the label.
The “DHL tape” moment, which evoked comparisons to Kim Kardashian’s infamous Balenciaga tape outfit, was one of many instances where Vetements appeared to be riffing on past triumphs. But instead of feeling like a mere repeat, these moments were imbued with the kind of irony that Vetements has always excelled at. By using elements from its own history and its sibling brand Balenciaga, Vetements managed to create something that felt simultaneously nostalgic and new .
Fashion Meets Satire: Graphics, Mocks, and Moto Gear
Vetements has never shied away from satire, and the Spring 2025 collection took this to new heights with bold, ironic graphics. Slogans like “Be Yourself” adorned shirts that poked fun at mainstream fashion, a playful jab at the consumer-driven world the brand critiques. The juxtaposition of utilitarian moto gear with ironic t-shirts, and floor-length gowns made out of unexpected materials, made for a heady mix of high fashion and streetwear.
Moto-inspired looks were a recurring theme in this collection, blending the hard edges of street culture with the avant-garde. The signature oversized blazers, wrinkled textures, and floral prints evoked memories of past collections while moving Vetements further into its fashion-forward future. The show had a distinctly post-apocalyptic vibe, underscored by the gritty styling and anarchic spirit of the clothes .
The Show’s Venue: A Nod to Its Subversive Past
Vetements has a history of choosing unexpected and subversive venues for its shows, from fast food chains to flea markets. For Spring 2025, the brand created a locked-in, industrial atmosphere, perfectly matching the dystopian, rebellious energy of the collection. This choice of setting reminded fashion insiders of the brand’s early days when its shows were as much about challenging norms as the clothes themselves .
What’s Next for Vetements?
Guram Gvasalia has taken the reins of Vetements with a clear intention to evolve the brand, even while paying homage to the legacy his brother Demna created. While some critics feel that the Spring 2025 show relied too heavily on the past, others argue that it’s precisely this blending of history and innovation that keeps Vetements relevant. In an era where fashion is increasingly defined by how well a brand can market its image, Vetements continues to toe the line between irony and authenticity.
Looking forward, the question remains: Can Guram continue to push Vetements into new territory, or will the brand always be seen as living in the shadow of Demna’s vision? What is clear is that Vetements isn’t backing down from its mission to disrupt, and this latest collection proves that it still knows how to make headlines
Brand @vetements_official
Creative Director @gvasalia
