The energy at 205 West 39th Street on Friday afternoon was electric, as Calvin Klein’s legacy took center stage at New York Fashion Week. Under the new creative direction of Veronica Leoni, the brand embarked on a fresh chapter—one that honored its minimalist roots while attempting to carve a modern identity in an increasingly competitive field.
Fashion icon Calvin Klein himself graced the front row, alongside industry legends Kate Moss and Christy Turlington, and rising star Cooper Koch. Their presence underscored the weight of the moment—Leoni’s debut had high expectations.
PVH Corp., the brand’s corporate owner, has tasked Leoni with restoring Calvin Klein’s fashion prestige, building on its booming underwear sector. The men’s and women’s ready-to-wear collection was a strong starting point, but in a landscape filled with contemporary minimalists like The Row, Jil Sander, and Khaite, more innovation will be needed to cement the brand’s revival.
Leoni’s pedigree is impeccable—having worked with The Row, Jil Sander, and Celine—but her challenge lies in translating that luxury experience into what PVH terms “premium fashion.” Some fabrications and finishes reflected that distinction, with outerwear starting at $1,300, dresses at $950, and denim at $450.
Determined to avoid a purely archival approach, Leoni instead sought to modernize the quintessential American wardrobe—a vision rooted in her own 1990s upbringing in Rome. Her structured-yet-relaxed tailoring played with proportions, moving between slim stovepipe trousers and elongated, pajama-style silhouettes. However, certain elements, such as workwear-inspired knee-length skirts, lacked the subversive sex appeal that defined the brand’s past.
Leoni’s take on American archetypes included flannel check button-downs reminiscent of a New York taxi driver and deep, dark Japanese brushed denim. Her eveningwear flirted with nostalgia via draped jersey and gray enamel sequin dresses, while accessories like CK One bottle-shaped clutches offered playful nods to heritage branding.
Where Leoni truly excelled was in outerwear—a defining category for Calvin Klein. Double-faced wool coats exuded luxury, structured trenches brought crisp sophistication, and the standout piece—a cocooning faux-fur crafted from organza strips—added a touch of provocation.
Post-show, Klein himself voiced his approval: “I loved it. I loved the coats. I started in coats, and I thought they were so dramatic and inventive and architectural. The tailoring was beautiful. The fabrics are quite wonderful. I loved the dresses too. For a start, it was quite extraordinary.”
Leoni’s debut successfully reintroduced Calvin Klein’s signature aesthetic, but to truly reclaim its status, the brand will need to push the boundaries further in future seasons. Still, this was a promising first step toward a new era of Calvin Klein.
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