On Wednesday, June 18, HOMME PLISSÉ ISSEY MIYAKE unveiled its Spring Summer 2026 Collection during Pitti Immagine Uomo—fashion’s most elegant trade show. This year, the Japanese house was honored as the Guest of Honor, staging its presentation at the breathtaking Villa Medicea della Petraia, nestled in the Florentine hills, drenched in golden-hour light.
Unlike many shows that live-stream in real time, this special event was not available to watch live. Instead, a video of the presentation will be released later—adding a bit of mystery and reverence to the brand’s quiet confidence.
A Tribute to Issey Miyake’s Legacy of Pleats and Innovation
The soul of the collection lay in the house’s eternal signature: pleats. And not just any pleats—but those pioneered by the great Issey Miyake himself, whose enduring legacy continues to shape the fashion landscape. Every single look in the collection paid homage to Miyake’s artistic and technical mastery, incorporating at least one pleated element.
In the villa’s manicured garden paths, models floated in flowing silhouettes: pleated shoulder holsters layered over redingotes, cardigans transformed into tunics, and translucent nylon outerwear in hues like Clongowes Wood purple, sinful red, priestly black, and faded lime. There was a serene energy—a balance between wearable design and poetic construction.
Issey Miyake, ever ahead of his time, was a pioneer in fabric recycling. This vision was echoed in the collection’s use of recycled polyester, and jackets that once again proved sustainability and style can exist in harmony. These nods weren’t just technical—they were deeply aesthetic, continuing the house’s mission to combine art, fashion, and innovation.
Artistic Inspirations and Subtle Storytelling
Before the show, guests sipped cocktails infused with gin, ouzo, and Japanese tea, served by waiters dressed sharply in pleated Homme Plissé jackets. The evening unfolded like a gentle performance more than a traditional runway—models meandered through the garden, rather than striking down a catwalk. There was no designer bow, no high-drama finale—just a quiet reverence for the clothes and the legacy.
Inside the villa, guests were invited to view a circular pleated table installation, topped with abstract painted illustrations and matching fabric swatches. Each invitation came with a translucent Perspex paintbrush, a poetic touch referencing the “Natura” theme of the collection. These artworks—rendered in rich earth tones, autumnal shades, and vibrant abstractions—later reappeared in garments shown outdoors.
Set against the backdrop of Volterrano’s Renaissance frescos and the Medici family crest, the collection stood as a symbolic tribute to a different kind of dynasty—the design lineage of Issey Miyake. In many ways, the show mimicked the Medici’s timelessness: a quiet empire of elegance built on strong, lasting ideas.
Gentle Elegance, Timeless Vision
Though subtle in execution, the show’s message was clear: Issey Miyake’s dream lives on. To dress a generation not just with fabric, but with intention, softness, and grace. Homme Plissé SS26 was not only a fashion presentation—it was a living, breathing reminder of what great design stands for.
