The master of trompe-l’oeil played on what it means to be normal this season.
As an authority in trompe-l’œil and proportional play, Mihara Yasuhiro has undertaken a considerable challenge this season—paying homage to everyday attire. “Our theme is ordinary people,” he stated through an interpreter backstage prior to the show. “I believe individuals aspire to be unique or to establish their uniqueness; however, I have recently perceived that embracing ordinariness is acceptable.”
Referencing his early clothing collections from the late 1990s, along with the preppy styles of esteemed labels such as Ralph Lauren and A.P.C., which he admired during his high school years, he stated, “I accepted the challenge of designing garments in standard sizes.”
The aesthetics of the collection maintained a sense of familiarity, featuring distressed jerseys, denims, satins, and checked flannel in faded hues; however, the silhouettes represented a notable departure from the voluminous styles observed in recent seasons, at least on a superficial level.
From the front, the appearance remained predominantly “normal,” though the oversized sleeves that draped from the front of jackets, resembling scarves and leaving the arms exposed, foreshadowed the forthcoming changes. Noteworthy highlights in this collection included a substantial brown leather aviator jacket and a refined black suit jacket featuring a narrow stripe, for instance.
What initially appeared to be a standard pair of baggy jeans unexpectedly transformed into voluminous cargo pants from the rear. The contrasts persisted, as elements such as denim jackets, plaid shirts, shell suits, and varsity jackets were combined to create Yasuhiro’s distinctive incongruous harmonies. The message “I’ve never been to me” was emblazoned on the back of several designs. A T-shirt prominently displayed the phrase “Don’t tag me,” while playful purses and ankle boots seemed to be crafted from discarded potato chip packets.
The theme encompassed a performative dimension within the presentation. Yasuhiro enlisted the online phenomenon Lennie Simo, recognized for his musical compositions created by tapping a pen on a surface, to deliver a live performance. His demonstration, viewed in both close-up and aerial perspectives, served as the visual backdrop on an array of large screens throughout the venue.
