LEMAIRE Autumn/Winter 2026: When Fabric Becomes Language

A world of fabrics, where colour speaks.

For Autumn/Winter 2026, LEMAIRE, under the creative direction of Sarah-Linh Tran, steps beyond the conventional runway and into a realm of poetic expression. Titled “mine eyes,” the collection was conceived in collaboration with theater director Nathalie Béasse, transforming the Opéra Bastille into a living, breathing stage where fashion, movement, and time dissolve into one another.

Rather than a traditional catwalk, the presentation unfolded as a theatrical experience — one that invited stillness, anticipation, and emotion. Bodies moved with intention, garments interacted with space, and fabric became the primary narrator. This was not fashion as spectacle, but fashion as presence.

At the heart of the collection lies material intelligence.

LEMAIRE’s signature mastery of fabric took center stage: layered wools, supple leathers, washed silks, and textured cottons formed silhouettes that felt both grounded and fluid. Colour spoke softly yet decisively — earthy neutrals, muted tones, and deep hues worked in harmony, allowing texture and construction to guide the eye.

The clothes did not demand attention; they earned it. Each look unfolded gradually, revealing subtle gestures in tailoring, proportion, and movement. Coats enveloped the body with architectural calm, trousers flowed with deliberate ease, and outerwear balanced structure with softness — a quiet tension that defines LEMAIRE’s modern vocabulary.

“Mine eyes” proposed a different rhythm for fashion: slower, more reflective, and deeply human. By crossing into theatre, LEMAIRE opened a space where time stretched and perception shifted, reminding us that clothing is not only worn — it is experienced.

At the Opéra Bastille, surrounded by energy, silence, and collective focus, LEMAIRE Autumn/Winter 2026 reaffirmed its position as one of fashion’s most thoughtful voices — where restraint is powerful, and where fabric, indeed, speaks.

See also  Paul Smith Fall/Winter 2013

Designers @christophelemaire_officiel
Creative Director @sarahlinhtransiegelbaum
Styling @benoitbethume
Hair @tomwrighthair
Makeup @carolecolombani
Casting @julialangecasting
Manicurist @loradesousa
Et merci @stellanzola 
Stage direction and choreography @cie_nathalie_beasse 
Composer Julien Parsy
Sound Manager @lezzi_soundartist 
Additional Music Supervision @souleymanesaid_

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