For Spring/Summer 2027, Maximilian Davis continues to sharpen his vision of the Ferragamo man, presenting menswear that feels sophisticated without becoming overly formal. Shown in Milan on September 26, the collection brings together elongated tailoring, supple leather, utilitarian outerwear and beautifully controlled proportions. Ferragamo’s show was officially scheduled as a combined women’s and men’s presentation during Milan Fashion Week.
Looking exclusively at the menswear, Davis proposes a wardrobe built around quiet confidence, sensual materials and a distinctly Italian sense of polish.
The New Ferragamo Silhouette
The strongest message is proportion.
Trousers are consistently generous through the leg, falling loosely over polished footwear. Rather than exaggerating volume into something theatrical, Davis keeps the silhouette long and controlled. High waists and belts give definition while allowing the trousers themselves to move.
Tailoring follows the same philosophy. A long taupe coat opens the collection of looks pictured here with an almost austere elegance, while an ivory suit feels considerably lighter: relaxed trousers, a long jacket and layered shirt-and-tie styling give traditional menswear a youthful irregularity.
Elsewhere, tailoring becomes darker and leaner. Chocolate and near-black suits are worn with tonal shirts, creating monochromatic columns rather than relying on conventional contrast.
There is also a noticeable continuation of ideas Davis has developed at Ferragamo recently. His Fall/Winter 2026 menswear similarly paired defined waists with fuller trousers, often incorporating leather outerwear, while his Pre-Spring 2027 work explored the house’s 1920s heritage through more casual daywear.
Leather Takes Center Stage
Leather is arguably the menswear story that jumps most immediately from these images.
A fitted chocolate leather shirt and matching trousers create one of the collection’s most direct head-to-toe statements. Later, leather becomes outerwear: oversized black jackets, glossy tobacco-brown coats and a deep burgundy shirt bring different levels of shine and texture to an otherwise restrained palette.
The glossy brown trench is particularly effective. Its almost liquid surface turns an extremely familiar menswear piece into something considerably more luxurious.
But Davis doesn’t depend entirely on leather’s obvious sensuality. He places it beside matte cottons, lightweight shirting and softly constructed tailoring, making the contrast between dry and glossy surfaces part of the collection’s visual language.
Brown Is the New Neutral
Ferragamo’s famous red takes a back seat in this selection.
Instead, Davis builds the men’s wardrobe through espresso, tobacco, camel, taupe, burgundy, olive, black and cream. The palette feels warm and expensive, particularly when several shades of brown are layered together.
A mustard-suede shirt worn with dark olive trousers is one of the simplest examples. Another look combines a pale sage short-sleeved shirt with chocolate trousers and black sunglasses, demonstrating how easily the runway proposition can translate into an actual summer wardrobe.
Even the more utilitarian pieces — including a brown hooded jacket and voluminous black trousers — remain sophisticated because of that controlled color story.
From Formal to Utilitarian
What makes the menswear convincing is the range of characters Davis accommodates.
One man appears in an almost immaculate white suit. Another wears a black leather jacket with relaxed brown trousers. There are belted coats, loose shirts, sleeveless tailoring, hooded outerwear and monochromatic black ensembles.
One especially sharp look strips formal dressing down to a white shirt, black tie and fitted black vest over extremely full ivory trousers. It has the vocabulary of classic men’s eveningwear without behaving like a traditional suit.
The accessories remain similarly restrained. Compact leather bags are carried close to the body rather than dominating the clothes, while polished dark shoes provide a recurring point of formality beneath all those relaxed trousers.
Ferragamo Menswear Finds Its Rhythm
There is no need for Davis to reinvent the Ferragamo man every season. Spring/Summer 2027 instead shows how much mileage he can extract from refining him.
The tension is compelling: wide trousers against narrow waists, polished tailoring against utility pieces, matte fabrics against glossy leather, and traditional menswear against a softer contemporary attitude.
It is luxurious without shouting about luxury.
And among the looks shown here, the most memorable pieces are often the simplest: the elongated coat, the generous brown trouser, the leather shirt, the ivory suit. Davis is increasingly making those elements recognizable as part of his own Ferragamo vocabulary.
Set design & concept by Fosbury
Architecture for Without Production
Production e show direction by Without Production
Styled by Carlos Nazario
Casting by Mischa Notcutt, 11casting
Soundtrack by Yasmina Dexter
Mix&Master by James Rand
Music License management by Katarzyna Stuczyńska, Outer Agency
Featuring Blue Lotus, Greg Foat
Lamb, System Olympia
Sounding Line 6, Moritz von Oswald Trio
Fat Old Sun, Maxime Denunc
Make-up by Thom Walker
Skincare by 111skin
Makeup Tools by Piccasso global
Skin Tech by CELLVISION
Makeup Team Powered by RAVE
HAIR by Virginie Moreira MA + Talent using MY.ORGANICS
Hair Partner JACOB/DAVID co.
Nail ENTITY
