For Spring/Summer 2027, Louise Trotter continues to define her vision for Bottega Veneta through material, movement and an increasingly relaxed idea of luxury. Presented in Milan on September 26, the collection explores the transition between seasons—the gradual shedding of winter protection as the body moves toward spring and summer.
For menswear, that idea translates particularly well. Looking closely at the men’s pieces, Trotter proposes clothes that feel substantial without becoming heavy: softly constructed tailoring, featherweight leather, elongated coats, fluid trousers and openwork textures.
A Softer Bottega Man
The tailoring establishes the mood. Black and navy jackets arrive with relaxed proportions, slightly dropped or broadened shoulders and trousers that fall naturally rather than clinging to the leg. Pale blue shirting and loosely wrapped scarves interrupt the formality, giving traditional suiting an almost improvised quality.
There is something appealingly undone about it. Jackets remain precise, but the styling refuses corporate stiffness. A dark suit worn with a powder-blue scarf, another with a blue shirt and pink shoes, and an almost entirely black look built around generous volumes demonstrate how Trotter is making tailoring feel personal rather than ceremonial.
The screenshot also reveals one of the strongest aspects of the collection: brown. Tobacco, olive, camel and chocolate create an earthy counterpoint to the black and navy. A brown leather blouson paired with dark trousers and a soft bucket hat is particularly convincing—luxurious, but easy enough to imagine outside the runway.
Leather, inevitably, remains central to Bottega Veneta. Yet Trotter deliberately removes some of its expected weight. Contemporary coverage of the collection similarly noted that leather jackets and trousers remained prominent while feeling noticeably lighter, and the house’s woven leather technique appeared on menswear outerwear.
Summer Without the Obvious Sheerness
Perhaps the more interesting proposition is Trotter’s approach to summer.
Instead of relying predominantly on the barely-there transparency that has dominated recent warm-weather collections, she creates ventilation through construction. Crochet, openwork knitting, loose layering and generous cuts allow air to circulate around the body. Vogue Italia described the collection in similar terms: structured garments create space between fabric and skin, allowing lightness to come through movement and volume.
One of the screenshot’s standout menswear looks captures this beautifully: an oversized white openwork crochet sweater with white trousers and a pointed knitted cap. It is artisanal without looking precious.
Nearby, an ivory double-breasted jacket and loose trousers turn monochrome dressing into something softer and almost Mediterranean. Cream shirts are left open at the neck; sleeves become fuller; trousers loosen.
Even the simplest combinations—a pale yellow shirt tucked into cropped black trousers, a grey knit with glossy black leather pants, or an olive trouser worn with an abbreviated dark jacket—are elevated by proportion.
Clothes Designed to Walk
Movement may ultimately be the collection’s most important material.
Long leather coats sway rather than stand rigidly around the body. Oversized sleeves fold and collapse. Wide trousers move independently from jackets. Scarves hang rather than being meticulously tied. Bags are carried almost casually against the body.
That kinetic quality connects the menswear to the more dramatic fringe and crochet pieces elsewhere in the collection. Trotter is effectively translating Bottega Veneta’s famous Intrecciato philosophy beyond the handbag: weaving becomes an idea about construction, texture and the relationship between body and garment.
And that makes Spring 2027 menswear feel distinctly Bottega without needing logos.
There are beautifully cut suits, leather trenches, generous trousers and deceptively simple shirts, but their luxury resides in touch, fabrication and movement. The wardrobe feels grown-up without becoming conservative and sensual without requiring obvious exposure.
For the Bottega man, summer 2027 is less about stripping everything away than letting the clothes breathe.
