Earlier this year, the Robert Mapplethorpe Foundation contacted Raf Simons. They asked if he’d like to work with them on something. He said yes. That’s the shorthand version of the story behind the collection he presented at Pitti Immagine Uomo, perfectly chimed with a duo of Mapplethorpe exhibitions at LACMA and the Getty Museum, and the HBO documentary subtitled Look at the Pictures.
The grim reaper madras hoodies worn by the male models on the raised Raf Simons catwalk definitely produced the desired effect. They obscured the models faces while they walked fast, and in packs, as they lugged over their shoulders long thick plastic chains hauling weighty bags behind them. It made for a disquieting and eerie mood.