by NICK REMSEN
“Volume transitioning” was the operative catchphrase at Casely-Hayford this evening, where creative director Joe Casely-Hayford, and son Charlie, designed a collection in celebration...
Casely-Hayford has created a signature style of relaxed masculine proportions and exquisite tailoring, imbued with an injection of the raw energy of London's dynamic culture.
The title of father-and-son team Joe and Charlie Casely-Hayford was nicely apposite for London menswear's themes as a whole: OF INDETERMINATE ORIGIN. That's not to say you couldn't have picked apart all the disparate threads of this, or any other of this week's shows: Nineties hip-hop, Sixties Mod discipline, rave-era Ibiza, Northern Soul, and all the other reference points that have clung round every collection. It's that all those things have become so melded together, so fused into something familiar yet strange, that the points of origin matter less and less. Instead, they're elements garbled in translation, warped and stretched into hybrids so far evolved that they've become almost entirely separate things.
Sometimes, the look of the fashion season doesn't emerge till the season actually arrives. All this week, all over menswear week, one particular garment...
Maria Grazia Chiuri loosens the rules of the Roman wardrobe for Fendi Spring/Summer 2027, bringing sensual tailoring, exposed skin, sheer layers, fur, relaxed denim and fluid silhouettes to menswear in Milan.
Antonio Marras turns Spring 2027 menswear into a Sardinian wedding celebration, mixing romantic tailoring with florals, camouflage, relaxed trousers, short shorts and eccentric summer layering.
Jil Sander Spring 2027 menswear turns familiar tailoring, fluid trousers, crisp shirting and restrained knitwear into a quietly subversive study of proportion under Simone Bellotti.
Vogue World 2026: Milano celebrates Italian craftsmanship with an extraordinary cast of men, including MGK making his runway debut, J Balvin in Dolce & Gabbana, Roberto Bolle in Alta Sartoria and Alton Mason in Brunello Cucinelli.
Glenn Martens takes his final bow at Diesel with Spring/Summer 2027, delivering distressed denim, undone tailoring, bare skin and rebellious menswear in Milan.