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Casely-Hayford Fall/Winter 2017 London

by NICK REMSEN

“Volume transitioning” was the operative catchphrase at Casely-Hayford this evening, where creative director Joe Casely-Hayford, and son Charlie, designed a collection in celebration of the former’s roughly 30 years in business. Also, news: Where last season saw a testing-the-waters introduction of womenswear, this time around the Casely-Hayfords launched a fully hashed out female line. It was shown at the same time as men’s, which is increasingly the norm here in London. /react-text

react-text: 108 But, back to the boys. The highest marks go to the opening look, which featured a tweedy, tonal parka of blue and near-black in an abstract circular print. It had a large, scooped fishtail too, and what we’ll call a statement collar. The piece will be a nice option for the gent who likes his coats versatile, yet moderately this side of quirky. Outerwear won overall—an anthracite-hued jacket with a big, almost ’70s-esque curved collar was also strong.

Where those above-mentioned adjustments in cut and shape succeeded, other parts felt more jumbled; too much was packed in on this catwalk. A suit with shortened trousers was singularly and purposefully distressed, leaving free-flying hanging threads—it seemed a little random. There was also a bewildering jumper with a mock crewneck collar hanging at a right angle from the actual collar. Strange crops, on the womenswear too, confirmed the shot amiss; a cleaner focus and/or styling edit would’ve aided the Casely-Hayfords here.

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