“We wanted to look at an idea of appropriation, an appropriation of place, of objects, of advertising, of characters, of attitudes. We wanted to bring these all together in an extreme setting, to make them real and unreal at the same time. We wanted to bring the characters found in the collection to life.”
—Raf Simons, Chief Creative Officer, CALVIN KLEIN
Earlier this year, the Robert Mapplethorpe Foundation contacted Raf Simons. They asked if he’d like to work with them on something. He said yes. That’s the shorthand version of the story behind the collection he presented at Pitti Immagine Uomo, perfectly chimed with a duo of Mapplethorpe exhibitions at LACMA and the Getty Museum, and the HBO documentary subtitled Look at the Pictures.
What Raf Simons has been doing with his fashion shows for the last two years now is fascinating. He’s been consistently chafing at the confines of the industry, challenging perceptions of his work.
The grim reaper madras hoodies worn by the male models on the raised Raf Simons catwalk definitely produced the desired effect. They obscured the models faces while they walked fast, and in packs, as they lugged over their shoulders long thick plastic chains hauling weighty bags behind them. It made for a disquieting and eerie mood.
For ZARA Studio Spring/Summer 2026, the message is clear: masculinity is fluid, styling is personal, and the future of menswear lies in the balance between structure and freedom.
Originally shot while developing the Dominic Albano Collection, this striking Polaroid series evolved into a sensual exploration of queer male portraiture inspired by iconic photographers and the provocative fashion imagery of the 1990s.