Berets off to Mihara Yasuhiro for zeroing on the question of the moment. “I look around now and see all the young people who are scared about President Trump and what that will mean,” the designer said before this show.
“Pagan knights in shining armor. Layers on layers as a defense mechanism. Something knitty and cozy—the epitome of British craft.” Jonathan Anderson was in succinct mode when explaining the makings of his Fall menswear collection.
A glitchy track called “Channeltwo (Murderousdub)” by an outfit called Seekersinternational—which, on its Soundcloud page, proclaims to “champion the more introspective explorations of dub”—ricocheted around the room. The set mimicked the atrium of a could-be-anywhere, ’90s office building.
Patrick Grant had said pre-show this collection was inspired by the portraits of scarecrows by British photographer Peter Mitchell. Yet anyone anticipating a straw-strewn Savile Row interpretation of Worzel Gummidge had their hopes dashed. Grant is far too meticulous for that.
A haunting and cinematic editorial by Christian Oita, The Exiled Prince follows Moroccan model and LGBTQ advocate Ossam Arad through a fictional yet deeply personal journey of exile, identity, and defiance in the Arab world.