Bespoken Fall/Winter 2014 NYC

By Kristin Anderson
The boys of Bespoken would seem to be in a dark place for Fall, and it suits them. The Fayed brothers, Liam and Sammy, whose family owns Savile Row titan Turnbull & Asser, have made a name for themselves over eight seasons by turning traditional suiting tropes on their head. This time out, their inspiration board brimmed over with stark, sooty images of troubled types like Libertines front man Pete Doherty, plenty of leather, and a shot of Mick Jagger (no doubt compulsory for anyone showing menswear in the 2010s). Bespoken’s latest offering, dubbed Tailored Vandals, took the rock ‘n’ roll leanings that have become the label’s hallmark and upped the Doherty factor exponentially. There were razor-blade stickpins tucked into lean lapels, and pendants took cues from textured handgun grips and drum-tuning keys. Lest these touches start to sound like they’re erring on the wrong side of rock flash, they were all carried off with impressive elegance. It doesn’t hurt that they were paired with some of the finest fabrics available, and an innate eye for tailoring.

See also  Yohji Yamamoto Fall/Winter 2013

Sporty spins, like a quilted suit in humble jersey, felt fresh and insouciant. But perhaps most unexpected were two female models, one sporting a cropped, slim suit and the other a classic bomber—every bit fitting counterparts to Bespoken’s patron saint, Cool Downtown Guy. A nod to the girlfriends and girl friends who have borrowed their pieces over the years, the gesture felt appropriately off-the-cuff. Whether this means we can expect a foray into womenswear from the brand, the Fayeds would not divulge. But suffice it to say, should the time come, expect a collective cheer from ladies south of 14th Street.

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