Todd Snyder Fall/Winter 2014 NYC

Mod gents and rock ‘n’ roll were at the center of Todd Snyder‘s Fall 2014 collection. And there was no mistaking his inspirations: From geometric-patterned hand-knit sweaters and skinny ties to an abundance of checked suits and separates, it was sixties all the way. “I was born in the late sixties, but the early sixties were so much cooler,” offered Snyder, adding that his Fall references were Mick Jagger, David Bowie, and The Who’s Quadrophenia. “Back then, guys really liked to dress up,” he said, “but they were also rebels. They had a great twist.”

There were options for rebels and dandies alike in Snyder’s Fall outing, which marks the veteran menswear designer’s seventh season since launching his eponymous range. And they were luxe options at that—particularly when it came to outerwear. Bomber jackets were a focus, the best ones being a buttery black leather number with quilted shoulders and suede sleeves, a sporty perforated lambskin iteration, and a tan shearling style whose hide was covered in a houndstooth print. Snyder’s pride and joy, though, is a shaved shearling topcoat with just the right amount of sheen. “This is my chicest thing,” he beamed, pulling at its hem.

The proportions—slightly tapered cropped pants worn with Chelsea boots, and layered sweaters, vests, and coats—were spot-on, particularly in the looks that featured dressed-up wool athletic pants. The autumnal palette of heather gray, cappuccino, burgundy, rust, and aubergine was mostly on point, too, save a dusty blue series that stuck out as overly retro. Snyder also could have done away with a pair of shiny silk jacquard dinner jackets, one in black, one in white with an ebony lapel. To be fair, Mick would rock those toppers, but on a mere mortal they read more bandleader, or busboy, than rock star.

With Snyder’s first store set to bow in Tokyo next month (he’s shooting for a New York outpost within a year), the designer stressed that he aims to cater to an international clientele. “Whether he’s in New York, London, Tokyo, or Chicago, I want my guy to feel comfortable, but also like he’s wearing the coolest things. If not, I haven’t done my job,” he said. After this showing, Snyder needn’t worry about that.