E. Tautz Spring/Summer 2016 London

E. Tautz presented its Spring/Summer 2016 at London Collection Men.

Tailoring is not a word heard much this London men’s season, tilted towards elegant, retro-tinged casual wear. Patrick Grant is definitely of this leisure-minded school, recalling the optimism of Britain in the early Fifties, when holiday camps sprouted and the gravity-defying Skylon tower in London symbolized a buoyant economy.

Grant excels at this period, and every exit hinged on his signature high-waist pants – wide-legged when paired with boxy camp shirts, skinny and cropped for fine knits – or slim Bermudas with sewn-in pleats. These played a supporting role to a host of slouchy raincoats, parkas and anoraks in a filmy, rainproof fabric — or toppers with more of a period feeling, including zippered barbershop shirts and four-button safari jackets.

While such plain clothes can be ho-hum on a runway, unusual colors for the outerwear – rose, mustard, aquamarine – and shots of gingham prints occasionally livened things up.

Backstage, Grant talked up the return of luxury sportswear. “People are buying into this idea of an easy wear,” he said.

See also  Domingo Rodriguez Fall/Winter 2014 loobook
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