If the jury is still out on New York Fashion Week: Men’s—how many international editors and buyers are among the mix in the front rows and the after-parties?—one indisputable positive about it was last night’s Theory presentation. Staged on the company’s Gansevoort Street roof under skies that threatened rain but never produced any, it was a coming-out party of sorts for the head of menswear, Ben Stubbington.
Stubbington has been at the brand for six years, over which time Theory’s men’s business has grown. He’s a veteran, not a breakout talent. But the staging (models were arrayed on scaffolding against the always jaw-dropping backdrop of lower Manhattan) and the concept (not just male models, but female models, too) made it feel as if we were witnessing one.
Androgyny is the biggest trend to emerge in menswear in maybe forever. But this wasn’t about the pussy-bow chiffon blouses and floral printed linen suits witnessed in Europe this season. As Stubbington himself put it, he makes simple clothes. With a nip here and a tuck there, his tuxedo—yes, Theory does tuxes—looked just as good on a she as it did on a he. And that goes for everything up on the roof, from earthy-toned casual suiting separates—Stubbington has an elegant color sense—to raincoats in a waterproof tech fabric with the sheen, but not the bulk, of neoprene.
We wouldn’t be surprised if a number of Theory’s retailers convince Stubbington and co. to produce some of these clothes in true women’s sizes. We know plenty who would snap them right up.
