Kolor Fall/Winter 2016 Paris

It was a mellow and dapper collection from Junichi Abe for his brand Kolor, and not only because of the warmth of the downbeat jazzy soundtrack — it was one of his best Kolor collections to date, full of nonchalant smartness. The show started with a tough, chic navy blue patent leather coat balanced by the soft beige of a tailored pant and the muted colors of a silk shirt. The look sent the message that Abe was in a glamorized mode, but the designer did it with a subtle touch and never fell into too precious of territory. Leopard dots came flocked on gray tailoring, such as down the belt of a pant or at the bottom of a roomy coat. Polka dots overprinted on a masculine cotton tartan shirt; dark ponyskin on the collars of checked coats and suits, and a Lurex tweed fabric inserted at the waistband of tailored flannel pants were some of the feminine elements spicing the collection, which was tinged with casual and sporty elements, giving them a dressy glaze.

Abe balanced the lush details with softness and rawness, such as a plush wool fabric used for sweatshirts and varsity jackets; fluffy mohair patched with cable knit for chunky knitwear, or his signature jersey for relaxed tailored pants. But the surprise came with the variety of fits he offered, with tailored jackets offering new proportions, like a large boxy double-breasted one done in ultrasoft fabric worn over a collar-less tuxedo shirt. A more constructed jacket was cropped and worn over a ribbed knit cardigan. Inserted in the lineup were six women’s looks that played with the same elements and the balance between dressy and casual with more fur, more prints and more animal dots.