Duckie Brown Fall/Winter 2016 New York

“Can you wear a puffer jacket under a suit? Do you have to show 84 looks?”

Steven Cox was asking the important questions today at the—frankly awesome—six-look presentation for Duckie Brown, the menswear label he runs with partner Daniel Silver that has consistently been a gender-dissolving example of advanced New York fashion. “We just wanted an edited show,” added Silver with sly and knowing exasperation. The crowd was momentarily confused when the duo emerged from backstage after the sextet of models took their lap, but the gamble paid off. The micro-collection’s title, Just a Little Duckie, suddenly made all the right kind of twisted sense.

“It’s real menswear,” said Cox. “We’ve done womenswear for men for so long, and it’s now happening for men in the mainstream, so it was time to go back.” In the pair’s singular style, these clothes still looked desirably fresh and unexpected. Suiting was the main theme in a loose way, with an élan of awareness and experimentation, but not overextension. A “dead-straight” blazer, styled unbuttoned as though to almost look A-line in cut, was excellent; likewise a depuffed puffer jacket, done in shirting material.

The success in differentiation, in making it Duckie, came from what Silver said were the “little bit off” proportions, like high and tabbed collars; “almost puddle”–hemmed pants; and lengthened sleeves. As the thoughtful “Your Silent Face” by New Order trailed off on the speakers postshow, Silver wrapped it up: “It’s that moment. You always need to have another image and another beat to keep it interesting.” Less is more, in this case, really meant something.