Robert Geller Fall/Winter 2016 New York

Robert Geller looked back to a story that resonated with him from his childhood in Germany for the backdrop of his fall collection. The story had a dark beginning but a happy ending, and although its origin may not have translated well in the retelling, it certainly had a positive effect on the line.

It started off with a “very dark, business-y” flavor, as shown in the double-breasted jacket with no lapels and a dark, short-sleeve trench embellished with zippers.

The mood lightened with a brown and beige color palette where texture was the highlight on pieces including a mohair suit and a jumpsuit with a subtle sheen.

Pants were more roomy this season with cropped wide-leg models, some tapered at the bottom. “I think this will replace the jean,” he said. “A dress pant that is not a dress pant.”

The show ended with deep green, burgundy and mustard looks that were accentuated with cummerbunds and included long, quilted coats.

With this strong showing, Geller clearly cemented his position as one of the frontrunners of the New York men’s designers.