Timo Weiland Fall/Winter 2016 New York

One can trust the team at Timo Weiland (Donna Kang, Timo Weiland and Alan Eckstein) to make cool clothes for a creative class of consumers, but this season they raised the bar.

Backstage before the show, Eckstein cited the brand’s usual points of reference — New York City and music from the Sixties — but emphasized a turn to more tailored pieces. Wide leg and narrow trousers were styled with matching blazers, which were worn over zip-up sweaters with chevron. Bomber jackets came in a gingham velvet and wool tweed. A European influence was felt with the playful berets and woven T-shirts. These pieces came in an energizing color palette — mashed-up cherry red with maroon and cobalt with kelly green.

What really elevated the line was the outerwear, which ranged from a plaid peacoat, which closed the show, to a wool car coat.

Similar to the men’s offering, the women’s looks were more refined than usual, with fluid wide-leg pants, tailored coats and a wrap skirt worn as a top.

It was a concise, grown-up collection for the brand and a welcome move forward.

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