Todd Snyder Fall/Winter 2016 New York

As the closing act at New York Fashion Week: Men’s, Todd Snyder wanted to make a statement.

So he walked 48 looks down the runway, his largest show to date, in an impressive lineup that blended traditional tailoring with functional utility outerwear, and a healthy dose of sweaters and shearlings.

“I wanted to put a stake in the ground,” he said. “I want to be the next great American designer.”

A lofty goal, but with the recent $11 million cash infusion from new owner, American Eagle Outfitters, Snyder has new funding that could help take his business to the next level.

Among the highlights was a bright orange parka paired with a gray sweatshirt and sweatpants. The coat was inspired by a Forties Mount Everest expedition, but modernized with today’s technical fabrics. “It’s a mix of modernism and naturalism,” he said.

The technical fabrics also appeared in raglan sleeve trench coats and quilted cropped jackets.

Another big theme was a deep military exploration that Snyder explored through a collaboration with the U.K. brand Private White VC. It was best reflected in trenchcoats, fishtail hooded parkas and textured olive green turtlenecks.

The use of camel in topcoats and suits elevated the offering as did the assortment of velvet tuxedos in midnight blues and heather gray.

Snyder’s mix of elegant tailoring, military references and utilitarian touches hit all the week’s, and season’s, trends.