Pringle’s collection was inspired by a fusion of early 20th-century and Eighties dress, or as Massimo Nicosia put it: “The idea of watching ‘A Room with a View’ while flipping through a copy of ‘The Face.’”
What unites those two eras is a dandy-ish, romantic sensibility, which Pringle’s men’s wear design director channeled into his roughed-up denim, lightweight knits, textured cotton sweatshirts and soft military jackets.
He re-tooled some youthful staples — based on the wardrobes of bands like the New Romantics — working wilted and crushed flower embroideries onto blue jeans and scribbling on them with a black ballpoint pen.
There was a scruffy, youthful edge to the collection, which also featured an oversized sweater knitted from a caged paper yarn, and sweatshirts woven from coarse cotton. Softer yarns, meanwhile, were knitted to make cropped military jackets or crocheted onto the collars of a twill trench.
Stripes were everywhere, from nautical sweaters to regatta jackets to shirts that were embellished with cutout flower patches made from the same, matching cotton poplin.
Pringle chose not to stage a show in London this season, opting instead to present at Pitti only.