by NICK REMSEN
“It’s the idea of an endless summer,” said Felipe Oliveira Baptista of his men’s and women’s Spring Lacoste collection today, “and all of the things I like about the season—ease, comfort, a natural state.” Fresh off a vacation to Brazil’s Bahia coast, Baptista nailed his mellow intentions with a lineup that was airy and crisp, and far less standard than what one might expect of the famous, tennis-rooted crocodile brand (although Lacoste’s runway shows are more directional than preppy). In it, he offered clothes that also inadvertently took on a more metropolitan, but still athletic, edge—hoodies, throw-on pants, and a general sidewalk slouch were all bonus byproducts of Baptista’s plan of attack.
“I guess you could say it’s a bit softer and less technical,” added Baptista, pointing to a river rock–red polo shirt (Lacoste’s most famous product, no doubt). This particular shirt, however, looked amply weathered, as if bleached under the Bahian sky. “We washed the piqué so that it’s like you’ve had it for 10 years,” he explained. The same effect was true of a long piqué dress, worn by model Mica Arganaraz.
Part of the collection’s overall faded-and-flowing look owes its blanch to Capri’s Villa Malaparte—Baptista was inspired by its sunburned colors. He also took the aesthetic and applied it to a mood; there came a selection of bathrobes and wraps à la Brigitte Bardot in Godard’s Contempt. “Baths and robes, sensuality, and the sun-kissed,” said the designer.