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3.1 Phillip Lim Men’s Fall 2018

A station wagon was the starting point for Phillip Lim's considered collection.

Phillip Lim bought a station wagon. He’s taken with country living and used his fall men’s collection to ponder the clothes one wears to do the most mundane things, like lounging around the farmhouse or taking a quick trip to the market — that unassuming “dad” gear that’s been infiltrating runways and department stores of late.

“It’s about living in pajamas and sweatpants and never wanting to change,” said Lim, who did what he does best: rethink classic pieces and imbue them with humor.

The collection was a lesson in layering for (stylish) dummies. Looks that appeared to be comprised of three or four garments were actually one piece Lim had cleverly constructed. Bubble coats featured knit sleeves, men’s sleep shirts included double collars, and mock turtlenecks peeked out of other tops. Many of the items were also reversible.

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“It’s a very tricky thing,” Lim said of layering. “You never want to come across as trying too hard. Men’s clothes have to be functional.”

He succeeded in making the garments not look too overwrought.

Lim also tinkered with fabrications. He used bonded Neoprene to produce a more tailored sweatpants and cotton instead of nylon for puffer jackets. More literal references came through in the graphics, which ranged from a receipt of Lim’s purchases at an actual grocery store, or a market tote and a Patagonia-esque jacket covered in photographs of produce.

Last season, Lim showed a collaboration with Ugg, and this time around, he’s reconsidered the Birkenstock and made it more outdoor friendly with rubber tips, leather and a heavy-duty sock that’s attached to the shoe. It was a collection with range, with clothes that were appropriate for cruising in a station wagon — or hopping on a subway.

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