The Givenchy Spring 2023 pre-collection by Creative Director Matthew M. Williams presents an archetypal, essential Givenchy wardrobe. Contrast is key: sharp tailoring pairs with distressed denim, animal print with glossy finishes, and fitted pieces with languid separates.
A fresh take on men’s tailoring focuses on relaxed elegance and easy layering: long jackets, wide trousers and precise overcoats mix with new-gen fabrics and new knit and denim treatments. Casual looks consist of sweats with varsity lettering, the 4G emblem in knit jacquard, a tracksuit in technical nylon, and parkas with 4G buckles.
I love how Matthew referenced Givenchy from the 50s and 60s and picked up an archival print from the ’80s yet completely forgot to mention Clare Waight Keller’s spring/summer 2020 collection which had had an obvious influence on this one. I must say, it’s not critically bad, at least it doesn’t look like that awful emo/punk Divided line from H&M but it’s getting more and more obvious that Williams’s stuff is just not good enough for the house.
I will not comment on the menswear tho. There must be a person in their design team who has been pushing their “sportswear” slash motorcycle gear aesthetic and I’d like to see that person out of this house because it doesn’t work, has nothing to do with Givenchy, even the Tisci’s one, AT ALL and doesn’t sell that well to begin with.
The runway collections are produced in limited quantities, available in a handful of stores and the mass gets the branded stuff.
While I appreciate that brands are selling RTW again, it’s a bit sad to see that fashion has disappeared from the stores. The sense of « wardrobe » has shifted for « merchandise ».
Contemporary brands are the only ones really pushing fashion tbh.
Matthew Williams took a wardrobe approach for this pared-back collection.
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