Here was military-inflected garb for summer heat at the Neil Barrett Men’s Spring 2023 in Milan.
For someone who witnessed — and contributed his fair share of defining — ‘90s minimalism, seeing its resurgence in recent years has been something of a relief for Neil Barrett. He now has more reasons to believe the decade’s fashion, with its unfussy and utilitarian bent, is still “relevant and resonant” today.
At Neil Barrett the mood was active-chic for active guys – starring snappy 90s revamps in contemporary fabrics.
Neil Barrett: Preternaturally young veteran
A quarter-century ago, Neil Barrett was a young Turk, or Brit rather, designer revolutionizing menswear. Today, Neil is an elder statesmen, yet he is still breaking rules and reinventing the man’s wardrobe with precision and punch. The collection’s title said it all: ‘Urban Oasis‘.
“I know how to dress myself but I have to dress these guys too,” laughed Barrett, pointing to his cast of rangy hirsute models in his via Ceresio headquarters.
Instead of a runway, the UK born designer presented spring/summer 2023 in a great video, projected inside a mini mountain range of dark brown sand.
“It’s good to have 10 minutes with people rather than just a quick wave or hug after a show,” added, post show, Barrett, still boasting the whip thin figure of his early days.
Neil dressing his cast in natty perforated neoprene blousons or grommeted surgeon’s tops. He cut holes pretty much everywhere; from white jean knees and ankles, to white ecru knit tops. Barrett has always had a great touch with transparency and layering – using that with great skill in combat vests and anthracite micro-mesh tops.
And when it comes to making an entrance, his redingotes with mirror sides were fabulous and flattering. In a word, this is one fashion veteran whose oeuvre and ideas has rarely looked younger.