Zegna Men’s Fall 2023 Milan

THE OASI OF CASHMERE. #OasiCashmere is a central development on Our Road to Traceability. We commit to certifying its fibres as fully traceable by 2024.

The entrance at the Zegna show provided a clue to the focus of the brand this season, with an installation where cashmere flakes swirled and swished around in an air chamber protected by ceiling-high glass windows. The intent was to show guests a key phase of the production of Oasi Cashmere fabrics at the company’s plant in Trivero.

The second cue was the name of the collection: The Oasi of Cashmere.

To be sure, 70 percent of the collection was made using the precious fabric and 20 percent included cashmere mixed with other fabrics.

“Innovation passes through the fibers and how they are woven and treated,” said artistic director Alessandro Sartori during a preview of the collection, underscoring the importance of materials and textures in developing his vision. “Style and technicality go hand-in-hand,” he contended.

In fact, there’s always something to be said about the impact and excitement of a fashion show, but in the case of Zegna, the opportunity to touch the fabrics and listen to Sartori’s description of the treatments and research behind the garments is an experience in itself.

Zegna’s techniques are so special that it seems it would be quite a feat to reproduce the looks without the company’s “hybrid technologies,” as Sartori called them.

Nothing is as it appears in the hands of Sartori and the skilled Zegna artisans. The brand’s signature Oasi Cashmere was treated to look like wool bouclé, jerseys were felt-like or shown with brushed and needle-punched finishes.

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