There was a Victorian rigor to this collection and, on closer inspection, a few surprises, too.
There was a Victorian rigor, and an Art Nouveau spirit, to this collection, which was filled with signature sharp McQueen tailoring and nods to the natural world, too.
Sarah Burton put men in high-waist trousers, corset-like tops and elongated topcoats that were sober and sophisticated. Sometimes they were sculptural, as in a navy blue trench with a nipped waist and a gently flared skirt.
On closer inspection, this collection was also full of surprises, and lavish details. Some of the sober, buttoned-up jackets were slashed open at the back to reveal a white shirt or just bare skin.
Others were embroidered or adorned with garnet or jet beads shaped into an intricate orchid design at the back. It was truly orchid season at McQueen, with the flower blossoming as a black-and-white photo print on a cream cady suit or jacquarded into a chunky white rollneck sweater.
The sculptural trenches in solid colors had dual personalities, too. At the front they were the picture of elegant sobriety while at the back their storm shields were covered in Art Nouveau swirls and the letters A and M. The distinctive motif also appeared on belt buckles.
Burton applied those same powerful lines and soft touches to more casual fare as well, placing an orchid photo print with bleeding edges onto a sweatshirt or an abstracted silhouette of the flower on a long, olive green quilted parka.
